Not long ago, eating on a skiing holiday meant only one thing: cheese, cheese and more cheese, with plenty of carbs on the side. Today though, menu options are more varied than ever. As Scott Dunn Executive Chef Rob Daley puts it, “When they’re back at the chalet, guests don’t necessarily want the traditional alpine fare every single night,” though of course classics like fondue or tartiflette remain a cherished part of many ski holidays. Now, however, even those classics are more likely to be cooked with the contemporary palate in mind.
The new ski food is partly the result of guests working more closely with their chalet chefs, and having fewer preconceived ideas when it comes to what’s on the table that evening. “People understand that if they want lasagne every day for breakfast, then we can do that,” says Daley. “And in fact we have done that once, for a 10-year-old boy!” Stuffy, formal dinners are being replaced by themed feasts – think samosa canapés followed by a selection of curries and side dishes – and there’s more of a demand for lighter, lower-calorie meals.
“We’re doing a lot more Australasian and Mediterranean dishes with a focus on fish and vegetables,” says Daley. “The flavours are cleaner and we’re doing fewer slow-braised dishes.” Breakfast and afternoon tea are changing too, with pancakes being supplanted by fresh fruit plates and smoothies, and savoury charcuterie boards replacing teatime treats. Settings are less formal too. Picnics on the piste, tapas evenings in the living room, diner-style movie nights and even barbeques in the snow are becoming part of a standard holiday.
And yet, with all these options available, the death of the tartiflette is still slow in coming. “We make things like tartiflette canapés, where the flavours and the ideas of the traditional foods are still the same,” says Daley. “And we still do a lot of fondue. They’re a bit more friendly, and a bit more hands-on – in front of a roaring fire it’s the perfect family meal.”
Images: Alamy, Corbis